MILAN — The sun glinting on the rippling waves of the sea at sunset inspired Pasquale Bruni’s creative director Eugenia Bruni to channel sinuous shapes dotted with diamonds for the brand’s latest fine jewelry collection.

Dubbed Luce, or Light in English, the collection hinges on the juxtaposition of solids and voids, with openwork link and spheres bearing half-moon-shaped diamond pavés representing the duality between the sun and the moon.

Bruni, who is the daughter of the company’s founder and co-chief executive officer Pasquale, has always channeled her personal sensibility for spirituality and mindfulness since joining the family business in 2001.

“My creative approach is always guided by emotions and intimacy,” Bruni said. “I grew up surrounded by jewels, my father would take me to the workshop as a kid… I grew up sensing the energy of stones,” she offered.

An avid meditation practitioner, Bruni said that Luce translates her personal research of light and evolution in jewels that sinuously adorn the body following its silhouette and add light to the complexion.

“The collection’s pieces are intended to bring a sense of well-being to their wearer… and a sense of freedom,” Bruni said. “They are designed around the body, on the anatomy of shapes,” she added.

“I never feel like I’ve improved enough, I’m always looking for the next best representation of jewels that embody rebirth and freedom,” she said.

The range comprises about 28 pieces, including chain necklaces, earrings, pendants, rings and cuffs, crafted from 18-karat rose gold.

The entire lineup is built upon the repetition of an individual module comprising a polished circular disc or smooth dome flanked by openwork interlocking links on each side. Links and discs are oftentimes dotted in diamonds pavés, arranged as crescent moons on the latter.

Many of the pieces can be worn on both sides providing different styling options or feature moving and flexible parts. For example, a spiral-shaped ring boasts a movable half-moon-shaped diamond pavé, which the wearer can shift the position of to represent different moon phases.

The new collection reflects Pasquale Bruni’s commitment to Made in Italy and artisanal excellence, as well as to authentic communication.

“We aim to create genuine connections that go beyond the product and speak directly to people’s hearts. We want the brand to stand for something, one in which clients can recognize and identify themselves,” said Daniele Bruni, the company’s co-CEO and Eugenia’s brother.

“This collection embodies the key qualities of our clients, women that are both sensual and determined. It’s filled with ‘talismans’ speaking of renewal but also of strong personality and attitude,” echoed Eugenia Bruni.

Marking the collection’s debut, Pasquale Bruni invited guests aboard a yacht sailing off the coast of Portofino, Italy, this week, treating them with mindfulness experiences to best convey the lineup’s ethos.

An independent, family-run jewelry player since its founding in 1968, Pasquali Bruni recorded a 37 percent uptick in 2024 sales versus a year earlier. The company declined to provide exact figures but said that year-to-date forecasts for 2025 point to a 55 percent jump in revenues.

“We are a company in full growth mode,” said Daniele Bruni. “Our revenues grew four-fold compared to the pre-COVID-19 period. That’s a remarkable achievement given the industry average,” he offered. According to Bain & Co. estimates the jewelry sector is to grow 4.5 percent in 2025.

The macroeconomic landscape may be challenging, but Pasquale Bruni is logging growth in both consolidated and emerging markets, Daniele Bruni said. It currently generates about 20 percent of sales in Italy and the Middle East, its strongest regions, followed by the U.S. which contribute 15 percent of revenues.

The executive acknowledged that the “biggest challenges for an independent jewelry brand today lie in distribution and promotion. In our industry, a physical presence in top-tier locations is crucial, but securing the right spaces is increasingly difficult. Major groups are acting as real estate players, monopolizing high-end retail spaces.”

The brand is not engaging in that fight for premium retail spaces but rather trying to develop its network of flagships organically, either through direct operations or with local partners.

This year the jeweler is opening its third boutique in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, to be followed by a new unit in Abu Dhabi. These build on last year’s openings in Riyadh, Doha, and Kuwait City.

Additional directly operated flagships are to bow in Paris, London and Geneva, flanking exiting boutiques in Milan and Rome. An additional door in Prague is to be opened in franchising.

As part of a five-year business plan, retail expansion in the U.S. is to come next, with an ambitious set of nine openings in key cities including New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Las Vegas, Dallas, Palm Beach and Aspen, among others.

The brand is also continuously strengthening its ties with global wholesale partners, which “are deeply rooted in their communities and become true brand ambassadors,” Daniele Bruni said. It recently opened new accounts in Oman and Libya.

In addition to its fine jewelry range, Pasquale Bruni also designs a high jewelry collection presented during Paris Couture Week and oftentimes teased at the Haute Jewels showcase in Geneva timed with high-watchmaking fair Watches and Wonders.