Lizzie Owens’s resort moodboard at 6397 featured a range of paparazzi images of Laura Dern—specifically the actor in the early aughts with her then-partner Ben Harper and their young children. Even more specifically: out and about in Utah at the Sundance Film Festivals of those years. “You know, my neck of the woods!” said Owens during a preview.

What to make of Dern’s look back then? It was a lo-fi mish-mash of her Hollywood bona fides and a laidback indie spirit. Dern wore clothes that looked personal and lived-in; this was the pre-stylist era before the runway-to-pap-shot pipeline completely changed celebrity style and became its own mini industry. To Owens’s credit, unlike many designers putting celebrities on their moodboards, she did not set out to replicate Dern’s look. Rather, she looked to her as a sort of vibe oracle.

This lookbook opens with a fantastic moleskin coat cut slimmer than usual at 6397; it’s slightly less boyish in proportions but preserves the androgynous appeal of the label’s tailoring while being more flattering. A sleeveless double breasted longline coat and a single breasted blazer, also without sleeves, followed similar lines. Also new was a fabulous black dress pieced together with different fabrics. The real hits, however, were the knits. A color-blocked tank top, a second-skin rib, and a couple of long sleeve tees printed on the wrong side to appear faded on the right one—these images don’t do them justice, but they show Owens’s ability to bring a sense of play to classics.

Via Owens’s partnership with 6397 founder Stella Ishii, the brand has undergone a funky, cool, youthful renovation. What made the brand a cult favorite remains—those incredible materials and generous, comfortable proportions—but these clothes are more in tune with the sartorial goings-on in the streets of New York now. The News showroom this morning was packed with next-gen market editors, many of whom were perusing the label’s racks for the first time. Could 6397 be the next if-you-know-you-know NYC It-brand? No objection here.