Inside the cool, calm, vaulted spaces of the Officine Générale showroom on the Left Bank, one could almost forget the turbulence of the outside world, if only momentarily.
Though every brand in fashion may feel, rightly, like a punching ball right now, Pierre Mahéo figures the best tactic for uncertain times is focusing on quality. For spring, he concentrated on the nonchalant yet polished looks that are Officine Generale’s hallmark, in materials like textured dobby seersucker in soft yellow or black, the lightest cashmere he has yet produced, or a wool-linen-silk blend that is among the brand’s most elevated offerings to date.
“It’s really a question of comfort and attitude,” the designer said of the rounded shapes and drop-shoulder sleeves. “That lightness and suppleness is what we all really need right now.” Daily Classics—an edit of essentials in knit, denim, jersey, or fresco wool for men and women—kept company with seasonal statements like a hybrid shirt-jacket that Mahéo sees as “an expensive shirt or a not-so-expensive jacket,” cut in wool-silk-cotton. Also sharp-looking was a zip-up work jacket in gray cotton lyocell; both came with easy, tailored drawstring trousers. Slipped over cashmere or light wool-Tencel knit t-shirts, softly structured work jackets in dove gray or tobacco suede looked like the kind of pieces that could last forever.
The women’s lineup likewise focused on refined yet relaxed silhouettes, in rich materials like linen, cotton-cashmere blends, brushed poplin, and Japanese textiles. A subtle material play appeared in a three-piece suit and breezy popover that, while it renders beige in these images, is cut in a flecked linen of a dozen different hues; a blurred optical print brought added interest.
Strong seasonal statements included an oyster-colored suit in silky, matte Japanese cupro, a rounded bomber with ribbed leather cuffs and collar, and a bustier with a fold-down detail in front. Raw edges and asymmetrical details gave some silhouettes an extra shot of interest; a jacket from the archives—a favorite of Mahéo’s wife, Nina—with a tuxedo lapel on one side and a suit lapel on the other, now revisited in black, was a standout. That piece alone neatly embodied the art of Parisian style: chic, slightly offbeat, and ever so subtly sassy.