As the saying goes, home is where the heart is and a number of runways are heading that way this season.
They include Sacai, where Chitose Abe staged her spring show in her Paris “home away from home” headquarters, teased a collaboration with Smythson coming later with trinket trays sent out with the invitations and zeroed in on the sartorial foundations of her 26-year-old label.
After the show, she told the scrum of editors through a translator that she’d intended an “undeniably Sacai collection” as a way to telegraph that “if she believes in what she does and is confident in what she does, there will be something for the future.”
She also highlighted the confidence she felt from the team she has built, and the family and the friends who’ve been supporting us, like Pharrell Williams and Helen Lasichanh, regulars in her front row.
It’s not the spring lineup she sent out that would contradict her.
She was on familiar yet very fresh grounds with a baseline of tailored blazers, MA-1 bombers jackets, her signature chunky knits, denim and staples like t-shirts and sweatshirts, hybridized with her keen eye and even sharper technical chops.
Leather moto jackets turned into patchworked coats, the inner quilting turning into decorative seams. T-shirt and denim shorts combos were turned into breezy minidresses. Even something as simple as a singlet was elevated with plissé panels and ruffles surgically inserted to ennoble them without adding bulk.
As often with the designer, it was business – or close enough – on the front and party on the back. Jackets had a basque made of padded shoulders, their construction thread adding a further decorative touch.
There was also a fresh sense of glamor coming through from floor-trailing gowns teased out of utility garments spliced with pleated chiffon panels or suits, like the one regally sported by Naomi Campbell for her turn on the runway.
It all made for a lineup where Abe put the “home” in home run.