Pulling an all-nighter might sound like the opposite of self care to most of us, but for Luis De Javier, it was the solution he turned to for presenting his spring 2026 collection.

The energetic Spanish designer said he felt burned out by the pressure of his last show, for spring 2025, and frustrated how the format did not allow him to highlight the detail and craftsmanship of his designs. “I was never happy with the runway pictures,” he explained. “We need perfect lighting, perfect angles … so you see all the handwork and embroidery.”

He staged a 24-hour long presentation, which was livestreamed, in a space in the Marais, with seamstresses putting finishing touches to his intricate creations and the styling and shooting of the look book happening in situ with passersby watching through the windows.

“I have no expectations, I’m just here to showcase my elevation, or what I feel is my elevation,” de Javier said. “I hope people like it, because at the end of the day I’m doing this for people; I’m doing this season by season to get to a broader audience, and really digest what was a niche taste and point of view. I hope to get to more and more people with this body of work made from love.”

The collection combined Spanish heritage craft work and flamenco and torero references, cultural tropes from which de Javier said he aimed to remove the patriarchal references. These were combined with elements of erotica like leather matador hats and biker gear, which mingled with the ruffled skirts and shawls. An embroidered Manila shawl, done tone-on-tone, had a hidden exotic dancer at the center of its motif, a nod to the designer’s focus on movement and performance. An elaborate shoulder pad inspired by bullfighting regalia had taken a full two weeks to make. Such statement pieces were combined with latex lace lingerie, pleated tuxedo pants, or ruffled taffeta skirts and capes in a palette of black and white, red and fuchsia. 3D printed sunglasses completed the look.