Uma Wang continued to explore Renaissance art in her spring collection, this time looking to its statuary and in particular the sculptures of Virtues in Mantua’s Palazzo Te.
The Shanghai-based designer, who spends half of the year in Verona, Italy, these days, said she wanted a softer, more relaxed direction after last season’s voluminous outlines.
Draping captured in marble was translated back into fabric, filtered by Wang’s modern eye and superlative tailoring. Statuesque silhouettes became looser but never undone through a palette of washed linens and an array of matte and glossy silks, while neutral tones ranging from sandstone hues to deep browns simultaneously evoked summer ease and the sculptor’s material palette.
Knits were crafted from large loose stitches that gave them airiness while keeping a substantial presence. Jacquards were worked on the reverse, turning a minute floral pattern into irregular fuzzy shapes.
“I don’t like to control everything,” she said. While luck played into how tufts of silky strands fell, there was no approximation in her work when it comes to fit and structure.
A kimono sleeve construction added visual intrigue to jackets but made a fluid overcoat fall in folds that made it look like it was topped with a cape but without any of the fuss of layers.
Elsewhere, clever details caught the eye, like a jacket’s collar turning up into a neckline that had an Eastern je-ne-sais-quoi or a draped one-shouldered blazer-blouse hybrid balancing adroitly between dressed-up and breezy.
The sculptural has always been a fecund direction for Wang. This elegantly laidback lineup should continue to resonate with her customers and feel inviting to those who like their tailoring flattering rather than formal.