Vincent Garnier Pressiat sought to signal his brand’s viability by expanding his neo-gothic, neo-romantic vocabulary, opting to tease drama out through plays on proportions, layering and details.

“I wanted to show that we can do commercial,” he said after a show rife with the components for a dandy’s wardrobe, which he executed both in sheer materials such as chiffon and revisited with fabrics better suited for daytime hours.

Often it was a case of swapping ripped tights for a more conventional bottom half and you had an outfit that could believably be worn to head into work.

Elsewhere, an oversize leather waistcoat worn as a minidress was shown later in a more conservative proportion, thrown over a tank top and skirt.

Among other standouts were godet skirts and roomy blouses, as well as substantial coats where his erstwhile outsized forms were stitched down to more reasonable proportions.

It wasn’t all vanilla. Dark romantic touches and extravagance remained in pieces like leather trousers that revealed a very cheeky display through its deep-V bumster laced in place.

Beyond signaling his five-year-old label’s growing maturity and commercial potential, Garnier Pressiat said he wanted to expand into a more lifestyle direction. A perfume is already underway and he is “always curious about plenty of things,” he said. “So I would love to grow.”