PARIS — The morning after, the seedy underbelly of Monte Carlo’s casino and offering a “what just happened” experience are among the ideas being brought by spring 2026’s fresh crop of designers to watch.

Laura Andraschko

Now on her fifth season, London-based German designer Laura Andraschko is back in Paris for a second off-schedule show. And it won’t be the last the fashion capital will be seeing of her: she’s plotting to move here in the short term.

“I have a feeling that London for me, personally and [for] fashion at least, doesn’t work anymore,” she said. Although she has fond memories, particularly of her Central Saint Martins crowd and the creative scene at large, “there is something about it that I just don’t click with anymore.”

The persona of her brand has also evolved, as she’s shown with the “Monte Carlo” spring 2026 collection, revealed Monday. She’s slid from being a Sloane Ranger and a ski bunny to ending up in Monaco, this season with “a bit of an age jump,” Andraschko said. “She’s now maybe in her late 20s, thirtysomething.”

New to the brand is menswear and the character that comes with it slots right into her projection of “seedy underbelly of people in Monte Carlo Casino — like this cliché of the age gap between a man and a woman.”

They might be questionable company for each other, but their taste in threads in impeccable. A touch of sleaze floated across this upscale-at-first-glance wardrobe.

The designer played with black tie, particularly “these velvet jackets with the piping” that she’d been obsessing over and examined up close in Savile Row. They came twisted and tweaked, particularly around the shoulders, “a little more Tim Burton-esque but not so obvious that you go ‘whoa, crazy shoulders,’” as she put it.

Sold at the likes of H.Lorenzo in Los Angeles, Gr8 in Tokyo and Ssense, prices for the label generally hit the 900- to 2,000-euro range at retail, with jackets and coats in four-figure territory. There are also jersey separates in the mid-three-figure price point and handmade pieces can go up to 20,000 euros.

Andraschko expanded into footwear with boots and introduced sandals and heels with her Monday show. Coming next are sunglasses and she’d like to introduce handbags, although she said designing these is a challenge as she doesn’t carry purses herself. “I have a broken phone in my hand,” she quipped.

Façon Jacmin

Twins they may be, but the Jacmin sisters are as different and complementary as night and day. Brunette Alexandra Jacmin is a 2010 graduate of Brussel’s La Cambre Mode(s) fashion school who cut her teeth at Maison Martin Margiela and Jean Paul Gaultier, while blond Ségolène Jacmin is a civil engineer by training who followed that up with a master’s degree in management.

After experiences in consulting, the latter felt the need to “create her own job, with a desire for a product — something concrete yet creative,” so the pair came together to launch in 2017 Façon Jacmin, which loosely translates to “the Jacmin way” in French.  

The idea was “know-how done our way” and a focus on an all-denim wardrobe that telegraphed “the strength to get through the day” through a timeless, hardy material, Alexandra Jacmin told WWD. They also used a truck as a mobile shop to sell direct to their consumers for the first seasons.

Prices at Façon Jacmin start at 100 euros for T-shirts and 250 euros for tops and sweaters. Skirts and trousers retail between 300 and 450 euros while dresses average around 650 euros. Coats can go up to 1,000 euros.

Production is done in Italy, Portugal and Bulgaria, which is also where they work on the upcycled parts of their collections.

Eight years on and with a brick-and-mortar boutique in Antwerp — plus 50 stockists worldwide such as Boontheshop in Seoul and Beams in Japan — they are making their debut presentation on the official Paris calendar with “The Morning After.”

It takes its cues from an annual cocktail held by the Délégation Wallonie Bruxelles, the region’s official representation in the French capital where Façon Jacmin will make its Paris debut on Oct. 7. “Our collection is a Polaroid of what happens after,” said Alexandra Jacmin.

No walks of shame here: it’ll be equal parts chic and tongue-in-cheek with elegant deconstructions of cocktail and business attire, with off-kilter proportions, staple garments like T-shirts and slipdresses revisited upside-down or with asymmetrical tweaks.

Judassime

For Belgian artist and performer Benjamin Voortmans, “fashion is their first language” and nonbinary label Judassime, which is also the name of their alter ego, is a conversation between semi-couture and performance pieces.

As a teenager, Voortmans took classes in patternmaking in high school and further developed their technical skills independently. While fashion remained their calling, formal training wasn’t on the cards for them.

The pandemic gave them the space and time to develop semi-couture line Judassime, with a first collection revealed in 2021, one day before the Royal Academy of Fine Arts’ traditional annual student fashion showcase as a tongue-in-cheek nod to their unsuccessful applications.

The gist of the brand is an exploration of darker topics, be they centered around individuals but also in society, through striking designs that question the human form through sharp tailored outlines, corseted elements and tactile materials like leathers and vegan furs.

While one might expect Voortmans’ work to end up on musical artists like Katy Perry, their work also was seen on Delphine de Saxe-Coburg, the half-sister of King Philippe of Belgium.

The Belgian royal wore a red corseted look to attend the country’s National Day parade on July 21. The two also collaborated on a T-shirt emblazoned with “Don’t Repeat History,” a message that “can apply to queer rights, to racism, to really everyone,” they said. “If you look back at history, there are so many things that we have to [avoid repeating] today.”

For their first runway show in Paris on Oct. 7, there will be musical and light performances and “the ’90s way of walking,” they promised. “I want the public to go out of the show thinking ‘what happened to me,’ not feeling like they looked at a catalogue to make orders.”

Style-wise, it’ll be demi-couture pieces alongside a more ready-to-wear offering and also the first Judassime menswear pieces.

The collection will explore the aftermath of the traumatic experiences explored in “The Wrong Deal,” an earlier collection that questioned the glamorization of women abuse in Old Hollywood imagery. Strength, fragility and reconstruction will be expressed through leather, silicone and motorbike fear elements, supported by exaggerated curves.

All made in Belgium, Judassime’s pieces retail starting around 400 euros for bags and skirts and go up to 2,000-euros for long vegan-fur coats.