Daniele Calcaterra returned from a recent trip to Marrakesh buzzing about all he saw and felt, including the Amazigh, or Berber tribes, camels and desert life.

He channeled all of that experience and emotion into an elegant collection of billowy coats, tailored suits and ensembles in an earthy color palette of chocolate, stone and corn.

He teamed an olive pussy-bow blouse with matching wide-leg trousers, and layered a long and dramatic taupe coat over a khaki ensemble with a military edge. Jackets came with exaggerated shawl collars or sharp shoulders, and Calcaterra often draped or knotted patterned silk scarves around the neck, as if to protect from the elements.

He offset his palette of monochromes with touches of traditional Amazigh geometric embroidery, adding panels of the colorful silk fabric to the edges of a sculptural white top-and-trouser combo. He also used the bright fabric to cinch the waist of a pair of wide-leg khaki trousers.

That embroidery also popped on the edges of an oversized, angular handbag with long fringe. The style, Calcaterra said, was inspired by the traditional water bags that are loaded onto camels for long trips across the desert.

For evening, the designer added feathers and fringe to slim dresses, tiered skirts and a fun white tunic top, which he paired with loose and faded patchwork jeans.

Though beautifully executed, some of these silhouettes were cluttered with too many layers and textures competing for attention. Perhaps it was Calcaterra’s enthusiasm for desert traditions that sent him into styling overdrive, but it would have been nice to have a closer look at each layer of this sophisticated collection.