It’s September, and it’s Earth, Wind and Fire — plus Water at Brunello Cucinelli.

Just like that influential pop band from the ‘70s, Cucinelli has become a directional designer in the uber luxury segment and with his spring 2026 collection, he stayed true to his views on exclusivity — and then some, further raising the bar on handmade embellishments.

Inspired by the four elements, seen by Cucinelli’s beloved ancient Greek philosophers as the four fundamental substances that formed the matter in the universe — which “not only animate nature, but sustain our very existence,” he said — the collection was defined by each.

The earthy and natural palette of sand, ecru, white clay and browns was quintessentially Cucinelli and seen on light summer tweeds and macro-chevron patterns.

Open-knit patterns, perforated surfaces, feather-light mesh vests, transparencies with lace effects and gauzes contributed to the airy textures and telegraphed the craftsmanship of Cucinelli’s artisans.

The brand showed more intense and fiery colors than usual, with lava, rhubarb and firebrick tones seen, for example, on a suede shorts and shirt jacket combo.

There were sophisticated embroideries that had a watery effect, dresses embellished with sparkling shells on a minidress or top, and rippled treatments on the azure and green fabrics that lit up with embroideries reminiscent of the seabed.  

The shapes were loose, with floor-length skirts and extra-roomy pants.

Cucinelli has been increasingly rubbing shoulders with A-listers, from Gwyneth Paltrow to Sharon Stone, thus paying more attention to red carpet and evening dresses. The spring lineup included a standout slipdress billowing out into a cascade of sequins and feathers.