Aaron Esh keeps his circles small and his designs tight.
His show on Saturday evening in East London had former Burberry chief executive officer Jonathan Akeroyd sitting front row along with a clutch of individuals who were recently shot by Hedi Slimane for The Face magazine. Phoebe Philo’s daughter Maya Wigram walked in the show along with David Sims’ son Ned and Wolf and Lux Gillespie, the sons of Katy England, who styled the show and who consults for the brand.
Esh’s clothes are for the cool and privileged. His crowd is youthful, moody and skinny — take a look at the long black overcoat with leather trims, suede button-down jackets or numerous leather pants.
Everything was feather-light, just like the stomping angry models.
The designer has been working hard behind the scenes after skipping showing in February. “We spent a year developing [this collection] and I worked with Katy throughout that whole time, getting to the point where every single garment is fitted. Every single garment is considered and every single pocket is considered,” Esh said.
He worked with a Savile Row tailor on making suits that didn’t touch a single sewing machine, adding strips of satin paneled into the lining. He also created feathers by testing out more than 30 types of chiffon.
Esh is focused on making a real wardrobe and cutting through the noise of Instagram gimmicks.
“There were girls in boys’ looks and vice versa. This is how people dress and it’s not a gender thing, it’s a wardrobe inspired by the kids that are out there,” he said.
Just look at Ned Sims for proof: He arrived at the show in a semi-sheer ripped white T-shirt and Esh let him keep it on for the runway by only giving him a white suit jacket and leather pants.