The goal of the exhibition, says Aucremann, is not a brand showcase, but “a cultural exhibition talking about color,” an area of expertise in which Bulgari holds a legitimate claim. Unlike Parisian jewelry, for instance, which is historically more monochrome, Roman jewelry is more vivid and bold in its use of color, rich with variegated gemstones. As such, the exhibition walks guests through a spectrum of raspberry rubies to sunset citrines, lashings of diamonds, and sapphires and emeralds the size of ripe plums set in bracelets or pendants.
Cabochon cut stones (the world’s oldest polishing technique and a Bulgari signature) are a main feature, with dome-shaped amethysts and rubies on show, with accessories including the house’s iconic melon-shaped evening bags, alongside brooches in the shapes of ice cream and candy. Everything is bold, rich, and unapologetically Italian. “It really expresses a very Roman kind of vibe,” says Aucremann.
The optimistic vibrancy of the exhibition is indicative of the market, too. With a slowdown in sales plaguing the luxury industry, the fine jewelry segment has shown relative resilience. “In this very challenging and uncertain economic moment, especially for luxury, jewelry is a bright spot,” says Burdese. “It’s not something that lasts only for a season, it’s there to stay.”
The exhibition is also something of an exercise in cultural exchange. Though Bulgari doesn’t disclose financial figures, Burdese says that Japan is “a very important market” and in the house’s top five, not far behind Europe. Speaking to the synergy between Italy and Japan, the exhibition opens with two pieces from the house’s heritage collection: A precious paperweight in the shape of a Roman temple, made from lapis lazuli, onyx, diamonds, and yellow gold, sits next to a gold circular brooch that, in mother of pearl and diamonds, depicts a scene of Mount Fuji.
“In Japan, you find a love for tradition and this timeless culture around craft, but at the same time there is bold innovation and a visionary spirit,” says Burdese. “So there is no other country in the world—[except] probably Italy, but in a different way—that can merge these two different souls.” The result is an immersive exhibition full of surprises that, instead of feeling like a branded showcase, displays the Roman house’s unparalleled prowess at purveying beauty through color. “We don’t call it a museum collection at Bulgari,” says Burdese. “For us, this is a living heritage; it’s what we are today and what we will be tomorrow.”