A confident woman who can feel at ease in every situation was the starting point for the new Emilio Pucci fall collection by Camille Miceli. The title, “Passepartout” was chosen in part for its literal meaning of a special key capable of opening all the doors—“in the past it was widely used, also to get into clubs” said Miceli. But it was also s an homage to the eponymous Italian art-themed TV show on air in the early ’00s hosted by Philippe Daverio, an Italian art critic and historian. Thus, the designer wanted to represent the different souls of her Pucci woman: somebody who can be simple or hyper-glamorous, but at the same time well-educated, and thus very interesting in all social occasions.

This collection was another chance for Miceli to celebrate the ancient heritage of Emilio Pucci and all its historical prints, such as Labirinto (originally from 1969) reintroduced for this fall season in a darker and more neutral palette to enhance its graphic and bold design. This was used for blousons and coats, as well as for floating dresses and wide pants reminiscent of the mid 1960s aesthetic. An important characteristic of this collection were the small details extracted by the infamous prints and transformed into decorative elements such as grosgrain hems or embellishments applied on the gold buttons. Party attire had a significant role with lurex gowns and cocktail dresses, but also frocks and tuxedos with metallic-tinged sequins in bronze and gold hues resembling the Orchidee pattern. Tulle proposals in Iride print were masterfully covered in “machine-applied sequins,” with the purpose of making these creations more affordable.