Charles Rosier and Augustinus Bader, cofounders of the latter’s eponymous skincare brand, are telling me over a Zoom call about the brand’s latest addition: The Sunscreen. Professor Bader’s pale complexion suggests he is a sun avoider, but Rosier, on the other hand, has the kind of sun-kissed visage that denotes frequent winter breaks in the Caribbean, topped up with pit stops to the South of France.

And so, on the eve of launching what Bader calls “the biggest innovation in the field of sun protection to the market since the existence of SPF,” it seems only fair to ask: how do they personally wear sunscreen? “I haven’t been the biggest user,” admits Rosier, whose favorite holidays in the sun turn out to be Tarifa, the Gulf of Naples, and the Aeolian Islands. “Let’s say, I’m more of an old-school, European-style person who likes to have a little bit of a tan…”

While Rosier’s use was haphazard, it turns out fair-skinned Bader was even less of a fan. The noted director of cell techniques and applied stem cell biology at Leipzig University avoided sun cream for decades because of the possibility of exposure to toxic chemicals. Yet they are both wearing it now. “This is not a [typical] SPF,” explains Bader of the elegant, white bottle with rose-gold trim and the clear label reading “SPF 50.” Their first foray into sun protection comes after four years of development, hitting the sweet spot of protecting and restoring skin simultaneously. “It’s a shield, plus repair technology,” Bader continues, “which is a big innovation in the history of SPF. Besides the shield, the repair technology [exists] to focus on inflammation.”

Augustinus Bader isn’t alone in its focus. Following six years of research, Sisley has revamped its suncare range with Sunleÿa Anti Aging Facial Sun Care SPF 50+ (it also comes in 30+), designed to help protect elastin and collagen fibers from both UVA and glycation.

Could it be that we’re finally learning to live in—and out—of the sun, balancing the joy (and highly essential vitamin D) it gives us with a sensible attitude to protecting our skin from harmful rays? If so, does a “sensible attitude” mean more sunscreen? Or less? My cynical side can’t help but be suspicious of the barrage of emails I receive telling me to wear it every day, even when I live in a country where grey skies are the norm from October through March. Lest we forget, as of 2022, the global sunscreen industry was worth more than $11 billion annually, and is estimated to reach $16 billion by 2029.